Loewe’s Surreal Fall 2022 collection had car dresses, balloon shoes – WWD

About 99 red balloons passed – some trapped on the vamps of strappy sandals, some squished into puffy heels, some fashioned like cheeky little bras and still others suspended in jersey draped over column dresses.

There were plenty of other wackadoodle sightings at Loewe’s fall show, including satiny mini dresses with rigid toy car-shaped hems, tube dresses with a pair of women’s pumps trapped under a diaper mesh and stirrup pants with funnel-shaped gear around the knees – perhaps handy for trapping house keys or dropped headphones.

Jonathan Anderson rushes full throttle into a more arty, experimental and playful chapter of the Spanish house, a fact underscored by the quirky chocolate brown box of a set punctuated with award-winning Fiat 500-sized pumpkins. made of works of art by Anthea Hamilton, a regular Loewe collaborator, the water bottles made entirely of leather by the Spanish leather goods house.

While this show didn’t have the charm and optimism of Anderson’s first outing – remember the red rose and cracked egg heels for Spring 2022, and those fun mirror-adorned dresses ? – it was always fascinating to watch; sometimes silly, often provocative and sometimes quite classy.

“I wanted something primitive,” Anderson said in a post-show scrum, also mentioning the Industrial Revolution, which might explain the car dress and quirky materials that included latex, felt and resin. .

The designer opened his storefront with a series of cute mini dresses in molded stiff leather as if rippling in the wind. There were strange shearling pants with a belt that opened like another funnel; cavewoman shearling skirts paired with latex t-shirts and knitted dresses with foam tubes arching under the chin like a cartoon rainbow.

Anderson said he liked the idea of ​​”pushing a figure towards something that can be absurd, things that can be irrational”.

He didn’t hesitate when a reporter coined the term surreal, comparing his collection to “Breakfast in Fur”, a sculpture of a teacup, saucer and spoon covered in fur by the artist Méret Oppenheim from 1936.

“I feel like it’s a matter of unknowing,” he said.

Not very soothing words for a luxury retailer or a Loewe store manager, even though the brand is sure to make gangbusters with denim sneakers, mules with airplane seatbelt buckles, leather bomber jackets in bubble shape and maybe even those balloon-heeled pumps – “just to prove the world was here”, as Nene’s song goes.